When the Boat Comes In

Newcastle is currently working itself into something of a frenzy over the 2005 Tall Ships race which it is hosting this year. This would be the third time the race has started from Newcastle; the previous two times were back in the nineties. Everywhere you go lampposts and walkways are draped with banners informing the population of the impending arrival of the ships and the some 3000 youngsters from around the world crewing them. So, not being adverse to a bit of frenzy myself, I headed down to Newcastle’s quayside yesterday evening to get a closer look at the half dozen or so ships that had already made the journey up the Tyne.

Accompanying me on this little trek were my good lady wife Gill and Graeme, ex flat mate and friend of many years. As with all such expeditions preparation is key so we convened in the Crown Posada for some refreshment…2 pints of Jennings Bitter and a packet of Pork Scratchings in my case. The Crown is one of the few remaining real pubs in Newcastle and it is always a pleasure watching the faces of punters entering for the first time wondering if they have passed through some sort of time warp.

The first thing I had noticed when walking down to the Crown were the large number folk headed in the same direction and the number of eateries that had invested in some B&Q patio furniture in the hope of fostering a continental feel for their establishments. This effect was somewhat countered by the decidedly uncontinental grey skies overhead and the Geordies seeming reticence to sit outside because ‘people can watch you eat’. Whatever, there were only about a dozen people braving the elements and stares of passers by.

There were only about half a dozen ships moored up as we strolled along the quayside, well short of the 100 anticipated for Monday, but he crowds were out in force. The crews were spending their time either busily fixing fairy lights to the hulls and masts or just leisurely lounging around on deck ignoring the passing gawpers. The smaller vessels were generally out of bounds but a couple of the larger ones were allowing public access so we dutifully waited in line then ascended the gangplank. Now when I say ascended I mean ascended, these things are huge standing several meters above quay level.

Huge mast...























Even bigger mast?...

It was nice to get a chance to view the vessels with only relatively small crowds getting in the way. I imagine that once Monday rolls along you will be reduced to pacing yourself to the crawl of the masses and won't be able to get within decent view of the ships without a fight.